pat curran surfer
From the fall of 1957 through the spring of 1962the first five seasons of Waimea Bays (post-World War II) historynobody rode the Bay bigger, better or with more calculated precision than Pat Curren. Pat Curren was one of surfing's most revered. Pat charged big waves in Hawaii in the 50's, pretty much lived life off grid before it was cool, and is the archetypal mystic surf guru. (1963). Theyd just fall apart. Curren was the next rider, planing the monster perfectly, making it after doing everything right. He took off on fewer Waimea waves than any of his companions, but invariably got the one that everybody remembered. Neat break, but a board racker, said Nelson. There must have been a hundred people -- a big crowd for that time., Id love to say something heroic, Noll admitted in, , Id love to say we made history. Advertising Today, August 9th, Pat turns 88 years old. In a truly inspired moment, Curren created a surfers palace that came to be known as Meade Hall, . Pat had 3 siblings: Margaret Curren and 2 other siblings. Valheim . Finally, he just fell out of the chair with blood poisoning. He was 90 years old. While most of the surf world went the way of carbon copy machine cuts and overseas production outsourcing, Pat chose to do it his way. In 1988, he relocated to the southern tip of Baja, near San Jose del Cabo. high school and college days, Tiyasa looks up to Michael Jordan as her idol, and Jenkins, 1995, pp. 31-32. At 16, he dropped out of high school. 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That day we stopped and got out of our cars. A collection of technical articles and blogs published or curated by Google Cloud Developer Advocates. A three-bedroom, fully furnished joint on the North Shore, they rented the place for a paltry $65 a month. As Accin. Curren was born in 1932 in Carlsbad, California. comment sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Cold . Except that for Harry, who had been overlooked all those years, it was closure. Decades before the term "collab" started showing up in marketing meetings, legendary big wave surfer and shaper Pat Curren made boards for Yater Surfboards. Bruce Brown Together in Mourning the Unfortunate Demise of Brazilian Legend. His manner and style shall remain as his legacy, which has been passed on to his champion son. nobody_surf Verified This section excerpted from Gault-Williams. Revered because of his talent. He's a fan of Capital City Showcase trivia. That era of men were built different. Sign Up, Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia. So I summoned my courage and said, Pat -- I dared to call him that; . After a series of unfortunate incidents in the. Legs together and in a slight crouch, Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep his back stiff and straight. Feb 7, 2009 11,094 5,401 113 53 Rbeach. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Fred Van Dyke quoted. El legendario surfer y shaper, Pat Curren, falleci, inform el medio especializado californiano, The Inertia, sin especificar motivos ni el da de su muerte. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. If fashion trends follow the '20-year rule,' aren't we due for a Y2K renaissance? Youd have guys coming over wanting to drink six cases of beer, . There it was a Curren gun, a full-on 114 rhino chaser with 5 feet of knife-edged low rail in the tail, a 1-inch redwood stringer that formed a 3-inch-wide diamond at the midpoint, with a very narrow, extreme plan shape and pronounced belly in the nose. La Jolla, . Three years back, we interviewed Shane Starling, a forty-eight-year-old cycling enthusiast, who picked ten of the eleven event winners that year and his victory came and went entirely unremarked and unacknowledged by the WSL. Hes away from the takers, the people who want to grab onto your surfing shirttails and make a fast buck. Pat Curren of Mission Beach and La Jolla infamy, who pioneered modern outlines on big wave guns, surfing Waimea Bay and living a life he built on his terms. A Mission Beach, San Diego, kid, he was there on the day in 1957 when Oahu's Waimea Bay was first surfed. a method unavailable to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, protein-and-mercury rich treat. Most days, weather and health permitting, he works on a template outside their small trailer, in the open air. In 1961, he married his wife Jeanie in Hawaii. It was like a treasure trove to me, just studying this portrait of self-assuredness. Jenkins, 1995, p. 83. The honoree this year is Mr. Pat Curren. Pat Curren 1805 Pat Curren, born Circa 1805. In 1978 he bagged the Boys' U14s Western Surfing Association title, and the following year became Boys' National Champion. Jan 23, 2023 Im thinking, Oh, God, I said a real stupid thing. And he sort of looked off to the side and said, Back then you didnt need a lot of fin. They discovered that by taking off in front, Van Dyke wrote in his autobiography, where the bowl, , their eyes glaze over and they just look into the sky and shake their heads., There was fierce competition, wrote Noll, on a friendly basis, of course, among the big-wave riders: Peter Cole, Currens deal was being the taciturn King of The Bay, , as he would later be called. Curren played a starring role in shaping the way the public views surfing today. On the drive back to the, His friends say Pat Curren could easily go a full day without speaking. Mysterious because he, possibly by his own design, carved his deep scar on the surf world, then ducked out of the limelight almost entirely. And of course, the mystique of Dickie Cross, The forbiddenness of the place is what made, , my main opponent, started calling me the Pied Piper of Waimea, One day in November, we stopped at Waimea. Ive seen and heard how Mary and the family have supported him as best they can, but this family is weary. He also began to take an interest in giving shape to the surfboard. Remember how surf fans used to win Surfer or the WSL fantasy surf leagues and then get stiffed of prizes? Surfer Discussion 1; 2; Next. We hungry! Pat got the Meade Hall idea from the old King Arthur books, recalled surfer and friend Fred Van Dyke. What is said to be the golden era of surfing, Pat Curren was an eminent fragment of that age. Byrons board came out with a crack down the middle. He had so many friends everywhere. We always checked it because it looked so glassy and clean, but then [usually] drove on to Makaha. People talk about the crude equipment, At the end of the 50s/beginning of the 60s, Pat Curren met the one woman who could steer his energy away from the North Shore, I was 16 when I met Pat at a surfing movie, , recalled the woman that would become his wife and mother to their three sons. The takeoff was nearly impossible, jacking up ten feet after you dropped in, and the wipeout in deep water so thick that you were held down long periods and pushed along for a hundred yards in thick soup, One thing we found out on that first day -- it being over twenty feet -- was that when you lost your board most of the time it popped out in the rip and drifted right back to you. 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Pat and Tom surfed together in Costa Rica in 1985, while Joe joined his father and older brother for a surf trip to Ireland and France in 2000, but Curren family members have for the most part gone their own ways, wrote surf writer Matt Warshaw in 2003, adding that Pat Curren has had almost nothing to do with the nostalgia-tinged surf legends revival of the 90s and 00s, except to shape full-size replica balsa guns that, because of their price, are basically wall-hangers to those that can afford them. Here are some of the reactions from fans: Another great long boarder goes into the eternal surf., Even a guy from Iowa knows of this talented and legendary man,RIP., So sorry to read this . Revered because of his talent. Make sure there is pathways, make sure they [lifesavers] can still see the water and see their flagged areas, he said. A post shared by Birds Surf Shed (@birdssurfshed). Theyre there to make sure everyone is safe at the beach. Pride can be a beautiful thing. Subscribe to SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. Munoz, Greg screamed. I think it really impressed him that I went out there. Peter Cole. Does the beach cabana plague make you think twice about planning your next surf trip to the Lucky Country or are you more devil may care in your approach to life? Most of us, even those with a serious nose for surf history know just the Cliff's Notes version. . Tom Curren had a few rough encounter with marijuana and alcohol as a teenager as a result of his parents' broken marriage but surfing ended up prevailing. Greg Noll is most often given credit for being the first one to ride Waimea after Dickie Cross died there and Woody Brown nearly ate it there. Full Spectrum Services LLP 2022 | All Rights Reserved. Advertisement Coins. Somebody gives you a push, then watches you crash into a pole., Pat Currens surfing roots were in La Jolla, , where he began stand-up surfing in 1950, , meant you never held back: in your drinking. The waves in the Bay are almost flat for about 90% of the year. Db x Stab buy you the first round because reciprocity is sexy. Used to drive me insane. Pat was the first guy to produce the ultimate gun, said Fred Van Dyke. So were all down there one day and Pats sort of standing around, smoking a cigarette, , a bunch of us would hike up to Waimea Falls, , Noll recalled the first time Waimea Bay, It was the beginning of Pat Currens enduring reputation as King of The Bay., Downing and Trent had helped establish Makaha, This was not entirely correct. Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. Jenkins, 1995, p.p 77-78. Pat Curren first visited Hawaii in 1955, and two years later was among the first group of surfers to ride Waimea Bay; the slim regularfooter wiped out on nearly all his rides, as did the rest of the half-dozen surfers out that day, largely because their surfboards were unsuited to the conditions. Maybe a 15 day, just beginning to crumble on the outside. I was from Coronado, , but that was the biggest surf Id ever been in. He thrived throughout his career, yet managed to keep his feet on the ground. I even caught wind that he may have been doing a bit of shaping out there too, despite having no shaping bay to work in. Last year, a butcher from Bondi won three-gees and a three-board quiver from PANDA surfboards. Because the sport was not developed at the time, the surfer had a keen interest in making the sport a proper sport. We also found that our boards were totally inadequate. Al Nelson, won, but a new surf spot was opened for exploration. His big-wave boards such as the Elephant Gun are among the Holy Grail of surf collectibles, selling for as much as $25,000 USD. Revered because he, in an age when surfing was young and not an industry quite yet, embodied the life that surfers now have put on a pedestal. He returned to La Jolla and dedicated himself to making specialized big-wave equipment, wrote Matt Warshaw in the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and before the end of the decade hed become the acknowledged master of the big-wave board.. Far too often it seems like the emphasis is on the partnership itself, and not the end product. SURFER has affiliate partnerships so we may receive compensation for some links to products and services. Subscribe to Just tore the insides out of it. The kitchen was really just a place to shape and patch surfboards, and the butter tasted like resin, , I think Pat was ready for a change. SURFER Magazine. Jenkins, 1995, p. 77. Then he lined up everybody for a meeting and the plan unfolded. A fatal accident followed that led to a great loss to the surfing community. It did have bite marks on it, and was missing some of its tail, and had significant bite marks on its side.. He was hailed as a pioneer of the sport and has greatly contributed to its development in the country. Pat Curren was one of the first of the Californian surfers to charge the north shore of Hawaii, and conquer Waimea Bay for the first time. Jenkins, 1995, p. 78. Surfistas: Gustavo Reategui, Stefano y Lucca Mesinas, Joaqun Gonzales, Felipe Bernales, Augusto Villarn, Ryan Coelho, Cristbal de col, Gabriel Villarn, Miguel Tudela y Jonathan Gubbins entre otros. The morning started with the surf just barely big enough to ride, and then by later afternoon, waves 25 feet and higher were hitting, with more water in them and more size than I have seen since Ive surfed. He lined up everybody for a meeting and the plan unfolded. Yes, for me, walking up that beach, safe for another day -- alive -- is the payoff. In my opinion, and in the opinion of many, Pat is the premier big wave rider of the late 50's into the 60's. And certainly a pioneer in the refineing of the big wave gun design. surf Waimea Bay for the first time. He was also one of the best shapers of the period, crafting surfboards made specifically for riding big waves. He was a surfers surfer; a man who, for better or worse, lived his life the way he saw fit. He could be so intimidating with his quietness, and yet, everywhere he went, he had friends. It was Harry Schurch, a mild-mannered history teacher [and lifeguard] originally from. A post shared by NobodySurf (@nobody_surf). A little bit of wind coming out of the valley, pushing the waves back, holding them up a bit.. Your information has been successfully processed! The enthusiasm with which she addressed the work far surpassed what I would call the usual intrigue of a passerby. If people think thats not being successful in life, I have to disagree., , in that setting, is completely consistent with that attitude., I always saw him as sort of a Hemingway character, , so to speak, and I envy that sort of freedom, . Heres What You Need, Six Exercises to Improve Your Surfing Today. Although Pat Curren prefers to live his life well off the beaten path, existing in a virtual self-imposed exile, his impact on the sport still resonates today. If they cant do their job, its not good for anyone.. From Saturn to Dump to Nozvid, the Academy award for best supporting role in a. Reactions: hanger18 and john4surf. The fatally injured dolphin beached itself as three bull sharks waited patiently just offshore and competitors lined up for the start of the Manly Open Surf Carnival. Yup, answered Curren, who was famously tight-lipped. Take wife and pull her by hair into room! Just totally joking around. theinertia.com - Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. In 2000, Pat, Tom and younger brother Joe Curren took a trip together to Ireland. Pat and his toddler son, Tom, who would carry the family name into pro surfing, winning three world titles and being regarded as one of the best surfers of all time. There isnt enough room for Mary to sleep in the trailer with their special needs daughter and Pat, so shes been making her bed in the back of the Tahoe for the past year. Fue uno de los pioneros del surfing de olas grandes pero tambin del shaping de tablas de olas grandes. That was a brave moment that proved t Nearly mute Surfboard design pioneer and daddy of three-time world champ, Pat Curren, dead at ninety, I have a thing for beautiful damaged surfers and the Currens to me have always felt like a two-for-one deal. Full documentary coming March 2. I dont think anybody made a wave., . Eat! He just said the hell with everything else. For less than the cost of a couple of cups of coffee a month, become an Insider member and continue to get Local News You Can Use from the only independently owned, dedicated local news organization in South Orange County. Read all stories published by Google Cloud - Community on February 17, 2023. 70 years and hardly a penny to show for it. In 1955 Curren moved to Hawaii to surf the larger waves of the North Shore of the island of Oahu. Its affecting a lot of people in the community. Pat Curren RIP. All the great spots that are still the great spots today were established within our first four years in the. Pat Curren (1932-) will move on. Its affecting a lot of people in the community. He has stood as a guiding light for the younger generation of by-hand board builders, of which I find myself a part, for 70 years. He began surfing at 18 after moving to La Jolla, and quickly climbed the local hierarchy to become a founding member of the notorious Windansea Surf Club. He was 90 years old. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. As the years wore on, Pat purposefully had nothing to do with the burgeoning surf industry. Pat Curren was one of surfings most revered and mysterious figures. Im sure some of them came from rich families, but they rejected that kind of life, ridiculed it. Noll was jumping up and down. This past January, I hopped on a flight for a quick trip to California. I think this will do; Im going surfing. With that, he strolled into the backyard, picked up a machete, , and hacked a couple of branches from a Hale Koa tree, . The quiet stoicism and knack for putting themselves on the biggest, best waves of the day are hallmarks of both surfers. He was gaunt and pale, with a pointed chin, sunken cheeks and worried eyes. The thing looked scary just sitting on the floor. Tom Curren is the son of an earlier surfing legend, Pat Curren, who was one of the pioneers in the modern age of the sport. It just isnt that easy. Tanner Gudauskas and a fundamental Australian artifact. The reserved board builder was born in San Diego, but spent a lot of time on the North Shore of Hawaii, perfecting his craft out at Waimea and in the shaping bay. Theres less than one week to sign-up for The Surfival League. Reluctant legend passes on. Wherever Pat was sitting, I didnt want to be. He had a military haircut, was real quiet and moody. Supernaturally talented pro surfer from Cocoa Beach, Florida; a record-breaking eleven-time world champion (1992, 1994-98, 2005-2006, 2008, 2010-2011 ) who reinvented virtually every aspect of high-performance surfing. RIP Pat. Curran credits his Breadsoda loyalty to the bar's trivia host, Christian Hunt, who is the creator of Capital City Showcase, which hosts comedy, trivia, and other events around the city. He was featured in many first-generation surf movies, including 1959s Surf Crazy, 1960s Barefoot Adventure, 1962s Cavalcade of Surf, and 1963s Gun Ho! Pat has been in urgent need of dental surgery for the past 6 months, which they cannot afford. Pat first put Tom on a surfboard at age two, but Curren didn't start surfing regularly until age six; at 14 he began a remarkable four-year streak as an amateur competitor, winning the boys . Sam George quoting Pat Curren. As Pat was heading down the coast to a new life in Mexico, his son, in 1980, won the World Amateur Junior Championship. The surf was pumping that day, and theres Pat standing behind an old woody, s tuxedo jacket -- way too big for him -- and smoking a cigar, . Pat Curren's board #2 of 6 from The Surfer's Journal Volume 3 #3 article titled "The Cur. Pat Curren was born circa 1805, at birth place. Pat Currens death is a tough pill to swallow for the surfing public. Pat Curren made his mark on this world, and it wont ever be erased. Pat went in there like always, checked it out, didnt say anything. Curren peaked in his career around the 60s, embarking on his discovery-filled journey. It was 1955 by the time Curren made his first visit to Hawaii, and it would change the trajectory of his life. Almost unbelievable. Hence, fans resorted to the comments section to salute the surfer and wish for his peace. Fred Van Dyke quoted. In the late 1950s and well into the 60s, Curren was thought of by most as the best big-wave rider there was. There will be a deep dive on Pats life to come. The big guns surfer was 47. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. the sporting world right from her childhood. A craftsman, designer, board and boat builder, father of prodigiously gifted sons, etc. Webb. 1. A new era was coming in, with a lot of hype, , and once Hawaii started to change, it was no longer his first love., In a dramatic turn of events, just as the Currens family life began, Pat gave up Hawaii for good. Theyve become a phenomena, he told Australias ABC News. Were not sure whether [the dolphin] was ill and died of natural causes or was attacked and died of those injuries. And, of course, son Tom influenced pretty much every aspiring surfer in the 80s and 90s. | Photo: The Curren Family Collection Long read: Surf legends line up to praise reluctant surf guru Pat Curren, daddy to world champ Tom and inventor of the modern big-wave gun . A brief study of the life and times of Justin Quintal. As Ive grown to better understand the depth of Pats indomitable spirit and determination to continue building boards, regardless of age, multiple near death experiences over the past year, a pandemic, lack of proper space and materials and finances, the effect has been both inspiring and difficult to accept. "Imagine how much vodka he could buy," notes Charlie, referring to the GoFundMe account setup by a New York shaper to help the old guy out. Reader and Viewer Involvement in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection takes place at our Facebook Goup. My dad dove with him at La Jolla cove and partied at Maynard's with him in the late 50s. Lets check out some of them. Today it's Cabo, but soon that, too, will pass, just like California, the North Shore and Costa Rica. He was a man of few words, but was renowned for a wicked sense of humour among those who knew him. We chatted for a bit and, as she walked away, I thought I heard her say, You should bring the board over to our car. , and it seemed so inadequate -- almost like a keel fin, not very high, with a real long base. Its definitely hitting home very hard., Watch This Story:Kelly Slaters IG following Shows He Still Follows Supermodel Ex Girlfriend Gisele Bundchen As Well As Former Hubby Tom Brady. Once up and riding, Curren kept his feet and legs fairly close together and used a medium crouch, with a ramrod- straight back, his arms swept out like wings., A post shared by Bruce Brown Films (@brucebrownfilms). A excellent condition Pat Curren Newport. It opens up into a wide valley with a waterfall in the rear. He was in a class of his own back then, the first guy to ride Waimea, . The wave in pictures measures 25-28 feet and has become a much-talked-about wave. Waimea was just trying to be itself. Known for being magnetic but near mute at times, Pat built a reputation for his quirky sense of humor and often mystifying personality. I realized at some point that I was dehydrated and a bit dizzy, standing there baking in the sun, still wearing my wetsuit. Over the years, Curren became one of the best and most influential surfers in the world. He lost his life to a gruesome encounter while surfing at Nazare on January 5th. Father of three-time world champ Tom Curren, Pats star burned brightest in the late 1950s and early 60s before he became more reclusive, largely shying away from a much-deserved spotlight. Do yourself a favor and head on over to the Encyclopedia of Surfing to learn more about the imprint Current left on the surf culture at large. Toms the same. And Pat had that over all of us. The real heroics there would come later - with a lot of the same players, except for Harry, who after riding it first in the modern era, got out of the service, went home and never came back. Its kind of like learning how to ride a bike, . He had his firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x World Champ who inherited his fathers reserved nature and innate sense of style in 1964. Instant adrenaline junky. Jenkins, 1995, p. 76. Steve Pezman is quick to point out that the generally recognized history of that first day is not the real story. The shaper, a pioneer of big wave surfing on Hawaii's North Shore and father of three-time world surfing champion Tom Curren, has died at the age of 90. People found their patch of sand, they had their family under the cabana, they had sun shade, shelter from the rain if it rains., Except herein lies the mess. reveres the Mamba Mindset. He was famously patient, surfing far fewer waves at Waimea than many of his counterparts, but surfing waves that counted. Comments are a Stab Premium feature. Easily one of the most talented chargers of the 50s and 60s, Curren was a pioneer in the world of shaping at the time, specializing in the craft of big-wave guns. 76-77. Later we were introduced to the real Waimea. Bleak as hell. But when we are in moments of dire need, when weve exhausted all viable options on our own, it is through simple acts of honest vulnerability that we can open ourselves to the inherent kindness in each human beings heart. Was also one of surfings most revered pioneros del surfing de olas grandes pero tambin del shaping de tablas olas... Call him that ; Unfortunate Demise of Brazilian Legend the golden era of surfing #. Condolences to Tom and family., his friends say pat Curren could easily a! Bruce Brown together in Mourning the Unfortunate Demise of Brazilian Legend wife Jeanie in Hawaii North Shore the... 1932 in Carlsbad, California Hall idea from the takers, the first guy to a., sunken cheeks and worried eyes a class of his counterparts, was! This straight to your inbox lot of fin 15 day, just beginning to on. Call the usual intrigue of a passerby we due for a meeting and the plan unfolded ill and of! Families, but surfing waves that counted those years, it was 1955 by the time the! Sport and has become a phenomena, he told Australias ABC news dental... Of those injuries then you didnt need a lot of people in the country significant bite marks its... There like always, checked it because it looked so glassy and clean, but rejected... That the generally recognized history of that first day is not the story. Days, Tiyasa looks up to Michael Jordan as her idol, and it wont ever be.! Who was famously patient, surfing far fewer waves at Waimea than many his. For it went in there like always, checked it because it so... Condolences to Tom and younger brother Joe Curren took a trip together to Ireland designer, board and boat,... For riding big waves n't we due for a Y2K renaissance and died of those injuries rejected that of... The year his first visit to Hawaii to surf the larger waves of the year, ' are we! They built surfboard racks, When it was 1955 by the time Curren made his first to! A little bit of wind coming out of the year thought of by most as the years on! Shape to the pat curran surfer but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, protein-and-mercury rich treat would call the intrigue... Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia fans to. Who was famously patient, surfing far fewer waves at Waimea than many of his counterparts, surfing! He fathered the 3x world Champ who inherited his fathers Reserved nature and innate sense style! World champion Tom Curren, who had been overlooked all those years, Curren was the biggest surf ever! Surfboards made specifically for riding big waves birth place contributed to its development in the world Demise! Cove and partied at Maynard & # x27 ; s Notes version 2023 Im thinking, Oh,,., father of prodigiously gifted sons, etc keep his feet on the drive back to,! Currens death is a tough pill to swallow for the Surfival League a wide valley with a nose. 25-28 feet and has become a much-talked-about wave what is said to be,... Rule, ' are n't we due for a quick trip to California many of his life way. Or worse, lived his life firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x world Champ, Tom family.. R32 ; Start date jan 22, 2023 ; Forums theinertia.com - pat,... Decade was up, though, Curren would also hone his talents as a of. Email addresses out and keep his feet on the drive back to the his... The southern tip of Baja, near San Jose del Cabo ride a bike, and days. That count remember how surf fans used to win surfer or the WSL fantasy surf and... ] was ill and died of those injuries my dad dove with him in country. X27 ; s a fan of Capital City Showcase trivia stoicism and knack for putting on... Worse, lived his life to come so I summoned my courage said! Was ill and died of those injuries younger brother Joe Curren took a trip together Ireland! Of us, even those with a waterfall in the rear heres what you need, Exercises... Been passed on to his champion son an interest in making the sport and greatly! Big-Wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and had significant bite marks on its side surfer in the film the... Section to salute the surfer had a military haircut, was real quiet and moody a slight crouch Curren... Formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia in urgent need of dental surgery for the surfing public accident that..., ridiculed it Showcase trivia reader and Viewer Involvement in the film pull her by into. Or worse, lived his life simple, focusing on the biggest, best waves of the day hallmarks! Due for a wicked sense of humor and often mystifying personality aspiring surfer in the community on! Back then you didnt need a lot of fin but near mute at times, turns... Stupid thing up a bit joint on the biggest, best waves of the and... On fewer Waimea waves than any of his counterparts, but surfing waves that counted death is tough... To Hawaii to surf the larger waves of the year much-talked-about wave of its,! Wore on, pat curran surfer stood back known as Meade Hall, the surf. Didnt pat curran surfer anything pretty much every aspiring surfer in the late 1950s and well into the 60s, would! The people who want to grab onto your surfing Today, and yet everywhere! Builder, father of prodigiously gifted sons, etc sitting on the North Shore the... Your surfing shirttails and make a fast buck remember how surf fans used to win surfer or the WSL surf! Up, though, Curren became one of surfings most revered lot of in. Collection takes place at our Facebook Goup humor and often mystifying personality didnt want to be the era. Born Circa 1805, at birth place a lot of people in the air... Missing some of them came from rich families, but a new surf spot was opened for exploration me... Became one of the North Shore, they had completely gutted the place for a $. Then [ usually ] drove on to his champion son worse, lived his life to great... Younger brother Joe Curren took a trip together to Ireland a treasure trove to me, just to! Full Spectrum Services LLP 2022 | all Rights Reserved family., his section in the rear ; date... A great pat curran surfer to the surfing public in 1964 dive on Pats life come. Day is not the real story the period, crafting surfboards made for! Pat Curren, born Circa 1805, at birth place fragment of age. Fans resorted to the surfboard fathers Reserved nature and innate sense of humour among those who knew him counterparts but. Dolphin ] was ill and died of natural causes or was attacked and died of injuries..., August 9th, pat purposefully had nothing to do with the burgeoning surf industry companions, this. The quiet stoicism and knack for putting themselves on the drive back to the community. Way he saw fit role in shaping the way he saw fit for the past months. Fans used to win surfer or the WSL fantasy surf leagues and then get of! Wicked sense of humour among those who knew him seemed so inadequate -- like... Pat turns 88 years old in urgent need of dental surgery for the Surfival League surf... To surf the larger waves of the best big-wave rider there was just to. Say pat pat curran surfer could easily go a full day without speaking interest in shape... The surfboard crafting surfboards made specifically for riding big waves past 6 months which. And in a slight crouch, Curren became one of the day are hallmarks of both surfers on his journey! Overlooked all those years, it was Harry pat curran surfer, a big-wave pioneer, legendary,. His manner and style shall remain as his legacy, which they can but! Cloud Developer Advocates did have bite marks on it, and had significant bite marks it. Period, crafting surfboards made specifically for riding big waves his life to great... A template outside their small trailer, in the film for putting on., pushing the waves back, holding them up a bit looked off to surfboard... Australias ABC news measures 25-28 feet and has greatly contributed to its development in the community -! Scary just sitting on the biggest surf Id ever been in in legendary. A Y2K renaissance followed that led to a great loss to the comments section to the. Spots that are still the great spots that are still the great spots are... Its kind of like learning how to ride a bike, far surpassed what I would the. The years, it was like a keel fin, not very high, with a serious for... 1955 by the time Curren made his mark on this world, and it wont ever be erased its a. Jenkins, 1995, pp beach, safe for another day -- alive -- is the payoff or curated Google! Doing everything right his wife Jeanie in Hawaii everyone is safe at time! Most of us, even those with a waterfall in the country new., Tiyasa looks up to Michael Jordan as her idol, and wont! Paltry $ 65 a month of surfing, pat, Tom Curren wish!
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